I’ve never been to Graceland, though I have been to Memphis. In fact I spent the night between busses in a — Shoney’s, maybe? — there, next to the depot. To make a longer story short, the building across the street was some sort of civil hall, and as I sat there, about 100 distinctly black people exited out the door in front of me, all DRESSED to the MAX, women all in hats, the men in long black coats, and I just watched in amazement at all this elegance & remembered how important Memphis is to the history of music, at the least.